A Place For Everyone, Part 2

Place Training, Part Two

Does this count as place? -Dean

Does this count as place? -Dean

Now that you’ve been working hard on place training with your dog and your dog understands they are supposed to stay on the “place” and remain calm and quiet, you can move to step two.

Step two is simple. Build duration.

How do you do this? Once your puppy is on place and quietly minding his own business you can sit nearby and let your dog spend some quality time on his place. You can watch TV, read, or work on something, but make sure it won’t take your main focus away from your dog. You need to always have one eye on him so when he gets up you can place him back in a sit before he leaves the place. If your puppy takes a nap the minute he wakes up you should give him the release cue and take him off the bed and straight outside. He will appreciate the opportunity to potty.

Continue this and once the puppy is reliably remaining on place while you sit nearby you can move to the next step, walking about the room while your dog is on place.

A few things to remember while place training:

  • Never give the puppy the opportunity to get off of place. Always try to be a step ahead and catch them before they get all the way off and place them back on the bed.
  • Always give the dog the release cue before allowing them to leave the place. If you let them leave without giving them the cue, they will learn they can exit the defined place area without the cue.
  • While training, remove all distractions in the room. Set your puppy up to succeed. Keep the area, the other dogs and people, and yourself quiet during training.
  • Don’t kick your feet, hang your hand over the chair, or lean over the puppy while he’s on place. This is very distracting and you’re basically inviting the dog to play with you.
  • It’s usually a good idea to work on place after a walk or play session. Your puppy will be ready to chill out and relax.

Good luck, guys! And happy training!

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Yakety Yak! Don’t Talk Back!

One Technique to Help Stop Barking In The Crate

Dean was relatively good at hanging out in the crate at home, but remember, dogs don’t generalize well, and distractions change the entire ballgame!

We visited my boyfriend’s family for a wedding and there were a LOT of people and, of course, everyone brought their dog! Dean didn’t want to be in the kennel, and he was letting us know it. All the ignoring him in the world wasn’t going to get him to stop barking. And simply ignoring all barking is the first thing I recommend when asked how to get a puppy to start barking in the crate. In the video you can hear the people and dogs downstairs, and you can hear the panting of two dogs on place in the bedroom connected to the bathroom Dean and I are in. There were PLENTY of distractions and reasons Dean wanted O.U.T!

I decided to try a different approach. Karen Pryor speaks about using the clicker to eliminate barking in her book, Reaching The Animal Mind. She says to wait until the dog is quiet, just for a second, and click and treat the dog. While the dog is still chewing the treat, click and give them another treat. Repeat this a few times. They can’t very well be barking if they’re chewing! I decided to try this technique with Dean in his crate. When he was quiet for just one second I marked the behavior with a “yip!” and gave him a treat, then quickly followed that with a few others. After a few minutes decided to wait and see if he would choose to be quiet to receive his reward. Once he figured out that was the game we were playing, I added duration. Instead of saying “yip” and treating him the minute he was quiet I waited for a few seconds, then marked and treated. I kept adding duration, then added the distraction of me walking in and out of the bathroom. I continued until he was consistently quiet. I then rewarded him by letting him out of his crate to play.

I used “yip” instead of a click to mark the behavior because I was getting ready for the wedding and couldn’t really handle putting rollers in my hair and clicking and treating! Anything can be a marker but you need to use it consistently and remember that timing is everything. It has to be something quick, concise, and easily executed. You do NOT want to accidentally mark the barking behavior and reward that.

I hope ya’ll enjoy this video and see how many different ways there are to solve behavioral problems in dogs. It’s all about being creative and finding what works for you and your puppy!

A Place For Everyone

place4

Place Training, Part One

Place training is one of the coolest and most useful things I’ve learned over the past few years. I was unaware of this type of boundary training before I started working at Wildrose Kennels. Mike Stewart, owner and lead trainer at Wildrose, has ingeniously created the Wildrose Way of training, and place training is at the heart of it. It’s simple, really. The dog learns to stay within a defined area for long periods of time. They don’t have to stay in a sit or a down; they can get up and stretch and rearrange, but no matter what, they must stay within the lines.

It’s easiest for a puppy, or dog, new to “place training,” to start with an elevated surface. It’s a more deliberate decision for them to step down off of an elevated surface than it is for them to walk off of a dog bed or a mat. I recommend Kuranda beds; I use these for my dogs and love them. They’re durable and easily washed with a water hose. When ordering you can choose the waterproof fabric option and if your dog is wet, or your pup has an accident, no water leaks through to your floor. The elevated bed is also great for senior dogs that have arthritis or other joint issues because it gets them off the hard floor.

You can easily transfer “place” from an elevated surface to something smaller and more easily moved by first training your dog to stay on place, and then adding the portable mat on top of the elevated surface. Once the dog has learned place on the mat, on the bed, you can eliminate the bed and use the mat on a surface of your choosing. I will cover this in a future post once Dean has progressed to that stage.

To start your puppy on place training, watch the video below. The steps are simple:

  1. Place your dog on the elevated surface of your choice.
  2. When the pup bolts off of place and takes off running (which WILL happen), pick him up and place him back on the bed.
  3. Remain quiet. There’s no need for any verbal correction.
  4. Repeat.

A few pointers:

  • Don’t stress out if it takes a little while. I can almost guarantee it will take longer for older dogs than it does puppies.
  • It’s all about consistency. Try not to let them break from place and self-reward by getting food, water, or a toy. Grab them and put them back, EVERY time!
  • Don’t leave the bed that you’re using for place training down when the dog has free roam of the house. If you do, they will choose to get on the bed, then choose, on their own, to get off. It will condition the act of breaking from place as acceptable sometimes.
  • Start small. Train in short sessions. When they decide to relax on place, reward them by releasing them and letting them have some playtime. By doing this, the dog will realize that when they bolt off of place they get put back on, but when they relax and lie down quietly, they get to get off and play. You should work on building duration over many sessions.
  • TRAIN, DON’T TEST. This is a great training “mantra” that I learned from Mike. Do NOT test your dog. Train your dog. Be in the moment, physically and mentally, while working with your pup on “place”. If you put them there and leave the room they have the opportunity to break from place and go play, undoing your previous progress.

Good luck with place training! I’d love to see how it goes for you. Post videos on my Facebook page and if you have any questions be sure to ask me there!

Check out Wildrose’s Facebook page here.

Sloane and Danner enjoy sharing a place every once in awhile!

Sloane and Danner enjoy sharing a place every once in awhile!

Ruby is using the place training cue to stay safely on the trailer. We were busy unloading four wheelers and I didn't want her to not be able to stretch her legs after our 9 hour drive, so I gave her a very large place, the entire trailer. She understands that she can move about on the trailer but cannot step off of it. Place is endlessly useful!

Ruby is using the place training cue to stay safely on the trailer. We were busy unloading four wheelers and I didn’t want her to not be able to stretch her legs after our 9 hour drive, so I gave her a very large place, the entire trailer. She understands that she can move about on the trailer but cannot step off of it. Place is endlessly useful!

Where in the world did that funny dog come from?? Brooks, a German Shorthaired Pointer, learned place in just a matter of minutes and joined the rest of the pack for the evening!

Where in the world did that funny dog come from?? Brooks, a German Shorthaired Pointer, learned place in just a matter of minutes and joined the rest of the pack for the evening!

Lola and Danner share bunk beds made by Kuranda. It couldn't be more perfect because Danner loves to jump up on his cot and Lola loves to be down under anything when she sleeps!

Lola and Danner share bunk beds made by Kuranda. It couldn’t be more perfect because Danner loves to jump up on his cot and Lola loves to be down under anything when she sleeps!

Britt loves to relax on her place after a long day of playing.

Britt loves to relax on her place after a long day of playing.

A place for everyone, and everyone on their place!

A place for everyone, and everyone on their place!

You can teach an old dog new tricks! Smokey, a 14 year old toy poodle, is learning place and Lola is showing him the ropes!

You can teach an old dog new tricks! Smokey, a 14 year old toy poodle, is learning place and Lola is showing him the ropes!

What do you mean this isn't my place??

What do you mean this isn’t my place??

You can easily tell that Callie enjoys sleeping on her place.

You can easily tell that Callie enjoys sleeping on her place.

Everything But The Kitchen Sink

Bringing Your Puppy Home, Part Two

When you decide to bring a new puppy into your home, one of the first things you should consider is the must-have gear to care for a puppy. Here’s a quick list of necessities with some details about each to get you started.

First and foremost, your new puppy will definitely want to eat! Food and water bowls are essential. There are several options out there, and to help you decide which is best for your new family member here are a few facts about each.

food_bowls

  • Stainless steel is a non-porous material and bacteria can’t seep into the surface, making it an ideal choice for food bowls. They may not come in a wide range of colors, but they are quick and easy to clean. Stainless steel also resists rust and other stains, making it a great choice for long lasting dog bowls. Toss them in the dishwasher for a quick clean, or if needed you can use bleach and other disinfectants without damaging the bowl.
  • Ceramic bowls are heavy and make a great choice for dogs that like to tip over bowls, scoot them around on the floor, or pick them up and parade around the house. They come in a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes but, without a proper glaze on the bowl, ceramic can harbor bacteria and is not easily cleaned. Be sure to look for a bowl labeled food safe and lead free. If your ceramic bowl gets cracked, go ahead and toss it and purchase a new one. Bacteria will find it’s way into the scratches and grow.
  • Plastic bowls aren’t the best choice for your new family member. Plastic is not a very durable material and can scratch or be chewed easily. Bacteria will hide in those scratches and thrive. They are the cheapest option, but you’ve already committed to the best care for your new puppy, so shell out a few more dollars for a better food and water bowl.

Puppy food is a vital part of this equation. Without a good well-balanced food formulated for your puppy’s needs, they can’t grow up to fulfill their greatest potential. If you have a large breed puppy you will want to seek out a food specifically formulated for large breed pups. These foods are created with the bones, muscles, and fast growing tendencies of these dogs in mind. The same principle applies to smaller breeds.

When purchasing puppy food be sure to choose one with DHA (Docosahexaenioc acid). DHA is a natural omega-3 fatty acid that is essential brain development and function in young mammals. The primary source of DHA for puppies is originally the mother, but just like human babies, your puppy’s brain continues to develop after birth. This makes DHA essential to your new puppy’s diet. The benefits are endless and studies have proven the importance of DHA for trainability of puppies. You can read more about the studies conducted by Hill’s Pet Nutrition and The Iams Company by following the links below.

http://avmajournals.avma.org/doi/abs/10.2460/javma.241.5.583

http://www.vet-magazin.at/firmennews/industrie/eukanuba/Forschung/Effect-of-Docosahexaenoic-Acid-on-Puppy-Trainability/Effect-of-Docosahexaenoic-Acid-on-Puppy-Trainability.pdf

The next essential item your puppy needs is a crate. He will spend a good amount of time in his new “den” as puppies need their sleep and a safe refuge from the chaos of everyday life. Appropriate size crate is a must. To find the right size here are a few guidelines to keep in mind:

  • Choose a crate that is just large enough that your puppy can stand up and turn around. One main purpose of the crate is house training and the size is important because of the dog’s natural instinct not to soil his den. If the den is too large, they might eliminate in one area, and sleep in another. To do away with the need to purchase several crates as your dog grows, companies have developed crates that you can purchase to fit the adult size of your dog, and block the excess area with a divider. These are great options, just remember to block off an area just large enough for your puppy to stand up and turn around.
Dean helps show an example of an appropriately sized crate.

Dean helps show an example of an appropriately sized crate.

  • When you go shopping for a crate you will see several options including plastic, metal, and the collapsible fabric kennels. Keep in mind that the primary use of the crate at this time will be for house training, so you can rule out the fabric crates. The wire metal crates are a good option to have in a busy area of your home because the dog can be a part of their surroundings. A crate is also a place of refuge to a puppy, a safe haven, and a place to “get away from it all” when they need some alone time. Plastic crates are great for this purpose. Puppies will learn to feel secure and comforted while in their new “den.” Of course, the first couple of nights your puppy will cry in their crates. This is not because they don’t like their new dens; it’s because this is likely the first time they have been isolated from their mom and litter mates. It’s a great idea to place their crates in your bedroom so they feel like a part of their new family.
Danner doesn't mind being the guinea pig in the example of an incorrectly sized crate! :)

Danner doesn’t mind being the guinea pig in the example of an incorrectly sized crate! 🙂

Although your puppy might not wear a collar full-time, it’s a great idea to have a collar and leash for safety. If you are taking your puppy out to the bathroom in a public area you will want a way to keep him safely near you. Be sure to select a collar that isn’t too heavy for him. One of my favorites is a soft nylon collar. They come in a ton of colors and are easy to clean should your puppy decide to play in a mud puddle!

The final and most important essential you will need when welcoming your new puppy into your home is a trusted veterinarian. You are likely bringing your puppy home at seven or eight weeks of age, so they have already had their first round of vaccinations. Each veterinarian might have a slightly different protocol regarding the timing of vaccinations, but most of the time your puppy’s next round will be at nine weeks of age, then 12 weeks, and the final round at 16 weeks.

There’s a very good reason for putting your puppy through so many rounds of shots. Puppies are born with natural immunities and continue to receive antibodies from their mother’s milk. This begins to diminish between five and eight weeks of age and continues to decline until 12 to 16 weeks of age. If your puppy still has a significant level of maternal antibodies when vaccinated, it won’t be effective. As the natural immunity dissipates, vaccinations begin to trigger the immune system to produce it’s own antibodies.

Go ahead and schedule an appointment for your new family member before picking him up. Be sure to get the vet records for your pup from the breeder or rescue organization and take them to your appointment with you. Together with your veterinarian you can create a plan to ensure your puppy gets the care he needs through vaccinations, micro chipping, and heartworm and flea and tick preventatives.

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Welcoming With Open Paws

Bringing Your Puppy Home, Part One

Bringing home a new, furry family member is an exciting occasion, but you must remember a few essentials to make the transition for your puppy the best it can be. Your first concern when bringing home a new puppy should be the safety and well being of your new family member. You have to ensure you can meet all the needs of a young pup. A few essentials include an appropriately sized crate, a well balanced and nutritious puppy food, a collar and leash, food and water bowls, and a trusted veterinarian.

You have your supplies and your new puppy. Now what?

Arriving home is exciting and you want to jump straight in and let your new pup meet everyone and every pet at your house, but suppress that desire. Successful introductions are critical to how your puppy will integrate into the current pack.

When two-legged family members meet the puppy for the first time, have them squat down, leaning slightly backward with their arms open; then they can call the puppy to them with a soft and excited voice. Everything with your puppy should be fun and exhilarating. Never crouch over a puppy or stare directly into their eyes. If a puppy is nervous about the introduction, don’t rush them. Sit on the floor and wait for the puppy to decide to come to you. When they do, reward them gently and enthusiastically with lots of “good puppy!” and petting.

When meeting a new puppy, sit on the floor with your arms open. This is a very inviting posture to the puppy. Avoid leaning forward, as well as reaching for the puppy.

Introducing four-legged family members should be done, initially, on unfamiliar ground. Choose a neighbor’s yard, or a walk around the block. This allows them a chance to meet in a small way, and exert some energy before going back home and getting to know each other even better. Don’t walk into your house and place the puppy on the ground and expect your adult dogs to accept him with open paws. One thing is for sure, the adult dog won’t be elated at the arrival of your new family member. Over time, they can learn to be great friends, but be patient and respect the rights of your older dogs. You are in charge of the introductions. Set both dogs up for success and be aware of whether or not anyone is uncomfortable at any time and be ready to remove that dog from the situation.

Walking your new puppy with your adult dog at the initial introduction is a great way to allow them to meet while enjoying a walk and burning some energy.

Dogs have a language of their own and adult dogs are masters of communication. Puppies, on the other hand, haven’t yet learned the rules. Heck, they don’t even know rules exist. Interactions between an adult dog and a young puppy are invaluable when it comes to teaching the rules. All older dogs have limits, and puppies have to learn to respect them. Until everyone learns to respect each other you are in charge of watching, and interpreting, the exchanges and stopping any inappropriate behavior before it escalates. Once you have walked both dogs, head home and first remove all toys, food bowls, bones, etc. that your adult dog might feel are “theirs.” Always supervise any playtime between your older dog and your new puppy. Provide a place to escape such as a crate or access to a bedroom for your older dog should they decide they don’t want to play anymore. If they retreat to such an area, respect that and allow them some alone time. Do your research on canine communication. Don’t punish an adult dog for growling at a puppy. Observe and be ready to intervene, but allow the exchange to happen. Your adult dog is only explaining the rules to the new little guy. After a few weeks your dogs should be getting to know each other well and forming a lasting bond.

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